Most landscapes are designed for summer fun, yet a good design in Grey Bruce and Collingwood also plans for January. Winter changes how your property works: where snow lands, where meltwater goes, what gets buried, and what gets broken. If you don’t think about that up front, you pay for it later in ice, damage, and spring repairs—no matter the size of your yard.
My tip? Design for summer and snow from day one.
That means deciding (on paper) where you’ll store snow, shaping grades so meltwater drains away from walks and doors, choosing plants that survive pile zones, and keeping fences and fragile features out of harm’s way. In Georgian Bay winds and lake-effect storms, a smart layout can cut equipment time, reduce slip risk, and protect the pieces you love—without sacrificing curb appeal.
I sat down with our design team to come up with this guide to show you how to incorporate winter elements into your landscape plan. The goal isn’t just pretty in summer—it’s a landscape that still works in February, scales to any property, and costs less to maintain year after year.
Let’s jump right in:
Start with a snow plan
- Block out storage, routes, and melt paths on a simple site map.
- As a rule of thumb, set aside 20–30% of the plowed area for on-site snow storage so you’re not burying gardens, fencing, or sightlines later. Then decide where the meltwater goes.
- Grade to shed meltwater—away from buildings, walks, and drive lanes.
- Aim to slope surfaces away from the house (code and best-practice guidance typically target ~2%/¼–½″ per foot for the first ~10′) and add swales or drains where space is tight. This reduces ice sheets, refreeze at thresholds, and foundation stress.
When piles and grading are planned together, you cut down on black ice, flooded beds, and spring repairs.
Choose a driveway layout and surface that actually work in winter
- Avoid below-grade/sunken driveways where you can. Depressions and windbreaks encourage drifting; good winter design steers wind and snow, not into a bowl. (Drift control research and DOT guidance show drifts form around obstacles or topography; shape the site to prevent it.)
- Choose hard surfaces (asphalt, concrete, pavers). Gravel gets thrown by blowers and becomes a hazard/projectile; it also litters lawns come spring.
- Consider heated driveways or heated lanes. Electric or hydronic systems keep critical paths clear and reduce slip risk; hydronic is often the more durable option.
The right geometry and surface can reduce equipment time, injuries, and post-storm cleanup.
Consider “plow” zones when planting
- Avoid planting evergreen hedges tight to driveways. Evergreens (think arborvitae or boxwood) are vulnerable to snow load and winter burn, and they’re also exposed to salt spray along plow routes. If you already have them, tie or wrap for support.
- Use cut-back-friendly plants where you pile. Perennials and ornamental grasses that die back each fall tolerate storage better, and can be cut down before winter.
- Mulch those zones. A mulched bed in a pile area protects crowns and soil over winter and simplifies spring cleanup. (Typical guidance: a few inches of mulch over perennials for winter protection.)
Why this matters: You keep the “sacrifice areas” resilient and avoid paying to replace shattered, salt-burned shrubs every spring.
Keep fences and fragile structures out of pile paths
- Don’t design fence lines where you plan to stack snow.
- Heavy, wet piles and freeze–thaw cycles stress, rack, and heave fences—and many municipalities and contractors warn against piling directly on them. If a fence must be nearby, leave a buffer and push piles the other way.
Why this matters: It’s cheaper to move the pile on paper than rebuild a fence in April.
Walkways: reduce steep slopes and break up long runs
Long, steep walks ice up. Keep slopes gentle and break grade changes with terraces and landings (think short steps and level pads) rather than one continuous incline. Accessibility guidance for ramps reinforces keeping slopes low and adding landings; low slopes are easier to keep safe in winter.
Shallow grades and level breaks make de-icing manageable and reduce falls.
Leave “push-back” room at the road (for sightlines)
Plan extra space at the road edge to push back banks after big storms. Clearing back piles maintains safe sight distance at driveways and intersections, and prevents ice ridges from creeping into the road.
Why this matters: You want to pull out safely in February—not nose into traffic blind.
Use natural snow fences to control drifting (where you want it)
A “living snow fence” (rows of trees, shrubs, or even tall grasses) creates a wind shadow that drops drifting snow in a controlled zone—not across your drive. Plant them perpendicular to prevailing winter winds and size them for your site.
This is something only seasoned designers will consider, so when designing your space, vet your designer to ensure they are experts.
Avoid roof “drop zones”
I’ve seen this too many times. One bad slide can flatten years of growth.
Don’t plant delicate material under tall or steel rooflines that shed big slabs of snow. “Rooftop avalanches” can damage people, landscaping, and fixtures; if you must plant, choose flexible species and protect with snow guards or set back clear zones.
Prevent mid-winter headaches with proper drainage
Good drainage is the cheapest anti-ice system you’ll ever install. Follow these tips and save a lot of money (and headaches) down the road:
- Slope, swales, drains: Build positive drainage (2%/¼–½″ per foot) away from structures and walk zones; add swales or drains where setbacks are tight.
- Keep meltwater out of travel lines. Direct it to turf or planted areas designed to take it—not across sidewalks or toward driveways where it will re-freeze overnight. (Municipal snow storage guidance emphasizes managing meltwater to prevent icing and erosion.)
If you’re building or renovating in Grey Bruce, Owen Sound, Port Elgin, or Collingwood, we can fold a snow plan into your landscape design—storage, push-back room, plant choices, drainage, even living snow fences—so your property works in February and looks great in July. Give us a call, and our team of designers can help transform your current landscape into one you can love, no matter the season!
